Sat 28 and Sun 29 June 08

Sat 28 June 2008

Back after two weeks. With a coffee machine!

Waves still big from a big swell Thursday/Friday. At Fairhaven big barrels are coming in and closing out. Shining as they curve then shutting down hard, throwing up spray and sand as they collapse. Went out about 3.00. Urquarts too big. Thought of going in, then a big set came through, about 6 foot or more. Most out there got hammered. I’ve got my new (Mark Seymour) board and don’t want to try it out there. Go to Point Roadknight. Very little there, high tide, closing out on the sand. But I go in just to practice. Good to get a feel of the new board. The Gordon and Smith. Not many rides and those very short. But getting used to the board.

Sun 29 June 2008

Got up at 8.00. Good long sleep in. Had been v windy in the night but not so bad now. G&S Board already in the car, so a quick departure. Fairhaven slow, nice looking lines but I went straight to Urquhart’s to see if any of the Boardriders are still out. Stopped and looked down from the Bluff. Good view of carpark and waves. No one out. Not many waves. Back to Eastern View. Not bad, and only a few out. Gen arrived, had seen me driving past as she went to get the paper. Me in my wettie. I went out. NO waves… long, long wait. The guy with the beard, Mongoose out there prowling at the back. Trouble getting the waves, very few coming thru. Then when I got them the board seemed to sit on top of them and I’d just be left standing with no wave. Frustrating. Got a few ok ones. Then it got a bit bigger. Two guys came out on long boards. Older guys, one with rolls of mid-life good living in the wetsuit, the other baldy gray. But they got all the waves. Made it look easy. I finally went in on white water. Best ride of the day. Water getting colder now. Hands cold. But feet good in booties.