Sat 6 and Sun 7 Nov 08

Sat 6 Nov 08
Didn’t go down Friday night. Friday 5th was a year since Jack died and we went over to Lyn and Pete’s.
Had dinner Fri before going to L and Pete’s in Carlton. P sick in the night and still not good in the morning, food poisoning. She decided she could make the drive down so we left about 10. Stopped at Grovedale Opp Shop on the way down and got a Phoenix frig, a small one to back up the one we borrowed from Peter. They Salvos have a system where they repair frig’s that are donated, they have a workshop and train people in frig repairs etc, they then give the frigs to people in need and sell a few as well. This one was $140 for a Fisher and Paykel. Shopped at Anglesea on the way as well. P pretty poorly, hit the sofa and slept most of thte afternoon.
I took S for a walk about 4.00. Not expecting any surf. But it was warm and I took my bathers. Very little swell but Spout Creek was sheltered, and a few out on long boards. I had a fun swim, body surfing little shore breaks.
Moss and Margie came to dinner. P stayed on sofa, mostly sleeping. We did bbq. They brought prawns which were delicious… garlic, chilli sauce and coriander.

Sun 7 Nov 08
Had a bit of a sleep in. Up after 8.00. Sachy had been sick in his basket so cleaned that up. Report was better swell today and a NW shifting to SW with the swell increasing with the wind shift. Good report. Urquarts no good. Fairhaven ok but I went to Spot and about 5 people out, odd waves, hard to read. A bit of rain coming thru but worth a shot.

Had a good surf, some really good little waves that I worked well. Relaxing now and having some time to think not just react. Staying up the top of the wave, closer to the pocket, keeping with it. Really feeling a difference now. The better the waves, the better I surf! Some were quite clean but the wind did shift to SW and it got bumpy and hard to manage. At the end only me and another guy out there which is always just great.

Fri 21 Sat 22 Sun 23 Nov 08

Time in lieu from work. Arrived Thurs nite. Slept in. Low tide middle of the day and had planned to try and walk around under the lighthouse. Set off from Sunnymeade an hour before low tide. Got past under lighthouse to the place we’ve got to before but again couldn’t get past. In fact tide was probably already 15 mins on the way in. Walked back to Sunnymeade and had lunch on the beach. V still sea and sunny. Surf v small and smaller in afternoon. Morning was probably the time to have a session.

Sat 22
Got up and ready to go out for a surf about 7.30 v windy but I was hoping there might be something. As I was about to leave, huge gusts of wind, rain and then sheets of hail… banked in the end like snow on the deck. I gave up and watched Endless Summer 2 which I’d borrowed from the video store. Pretty bad, boys movie, daggy, some good surf. Rest of the day prepared for ACTF interview, fire on all day. Sachy has a sore leg so no walk. Watched videos that nigh, but they were no good.Bondi Tsunami and Good Man of New York, Al Pacino

Sun 23
Still bad weather but didn’t need a fire. P and I left Sachy at home and walked at Roadknight, sheltered a bit from the raging SSW wind. Walked all the way round to Anglesea which we’d never done before. Home and lunch. More CV. Then 3.30 back to Roadknight to try for a surf. It was possible tho still v windy. Only a few out. The older woman with the kombi and the young woman she surfs with (daughter?) The young one good, catching everything, all the crappy little waves, gets off paddles out turns round catches the next one. I got a few but they were small and died under my feet. Good to get wet but a bit frustrating. Havent had a good surf now for a few weeks.

Sat 15 Sun 16 Nov 08

Sat 15 Nov 08
Good surf at Urquarts early from 7.30 to 9.30. Small but clean and only a few out. At the end the waves got better and there was only me and another guy out there. not competitive and I felt v confident. A break thru, going with the wave and pushing the board against that power and me being in control of it. Felt v different and really enjoyed it.

Sun 16 Nov
Up a bit later. Wind and nothing at Urquarts. Bit of a swell tho so I went and checked Roadknight. waves were small in the bay but ok past the point. Went out but didn’t want to go past the point, too scary, v windy and hard to read. Havent done Roadknight before so cant read it well. Waves inside were small and hard to get. Lots of paddle board stand up guys getting the best ones. Frustrating. Yesterday felt so good and today I feel like an amateur…

Fri 31 Oct to Tues 4 Nov 08

CUP LONG WEEKEND – took Friday and Monday off

left Melbourne after work on Thurs 30 Oct. P collected me at work at 5.00. We have a new sideboard that P found in Abbotsford Salvos, 50’s style for $50. Its in the back. Sachy happy as he’s got a seat for once. Arrived and unloaded.

Friday 31 Oct
Got up to check the surf but v small and no waves, no one out anywhere as predicted. We walked S at Eastern View and continued on to Lorne to do some shopping. Found Cathedral Rock on the way. This according to the Surfers guide is Winkipops lost cousin, its really good on big days (too good for me). This is the wave Joel’s Uncle Tony surfed in winter.
Lorne, pretty quiet. Got some fruit and veg at the little organic store by the river, browsed the stores, bought The White Tiger at the bookshop (this year’s Booker winner). Fish at Lorne, red Schnapper and some squid tubes (which turned out to be off). Drove back home. A bit of surf at Spot, this is probably the moment for a surf but its late and lunchtime so I pass on it. Was the moment as there was nothing later on, so another no surf day. Rang Simone at the Real Estate agent and arranged for a plumber to come and fix the bathroom tap (finally after about 2 months). Lovely young apprentice called Leeton came and fixed the tap and also connected the hot water to the outdoor shower, so now we are in splendid luxury.

P started cleaning up the sideboard. Cooked the fish for dinner and chucked out the squid.

Sat 1 November
Got up to check the surf, again nothing. Got milk and papers at Store, they were setting up a stall there for Cup Weekend.
A big day ahead. A colleague of P’s family in law were having a garage sale in Banool Street, just around the corner, so we went for a look, expecting bits and pieces but it was a big sale, lots of furniture. The one thing we were still needing was a sofa bed for visitors. P asked without much expectation if she had one, and she did, for $20. We had a peek at it and it looked fine (it was under another sofa). So we paid and said we’d pick it up later.
To Aireys school fete and market, first market of the summer. Big. But we only had a bit of cash as we’d bought the bed. Got some vegies and a pot of lemon curd. Walked S at Gap then to Anglesea to Mr Stabbs and supermarket and home.
Afternoon finished cleaning up the sideboard and put crockery and mugs and bowls in it.

Looks good. Went back to Garage sale and tried to get sofa in car but its too big. Gen and Mon here with Ian and Rose and parents. All four (without the parents) came over to help move the sofa hoping it would go in Ian’s Volvo (which he was a bit nervous about). It didn’t fit and we were contemplating putting it on our roof racks but then 3 young people came along in a 4WD and bought a sofa and a bit of furniture and they agreed to come back and get the sofa to our place. They came back with a trailer! Meanwhile Jenny at the garage sale had cracked open the cardboard chardonnay and passing it round to the neighbours and all of us. Great fun. I also got 18 souvenir spoons for $5.00 (I reckon I could get $5.00 each on eBay). So got the sofa into our place with the young guys helping Ian.

Sun 2 Nov
Finally some surf. At Urquhart’s, not great but there were about 20 people out at 8.00 am! Bit rusty at first but got some good rides, one really nice where I got slotted in this little wave, rail in trim and just slid along the wave. Not many people I knew and a bit busy and competitive but no attitude going on. Surf report was pretty right about today, it was the best of the weekend, and a small window of opportunity.

Got out about 10 and had a text from Joel. He was at Roadknight. We talked later, he was just down to pick up a board and pity we hadn’t caught up cos he’d had a good surf at Roadknight, I’d never think of checking it out. Mon had bought a wetsuit top yesterday and was keen to try a surf so we thought we’d meet in the afternoon. It was warm, humid and P and I read, I had a big sleep. At 4 the weather had turned and it was cool, I wasn’t keen on a beginner surf session so called it off.
Drinks at Gen’s at 6.00 with them (the parents had gone home). Good fun and good humour. We came home and had pasta and watched the last episode of the First Australians.

Mon 3 Nov. 08
Checked surf in morning with not much hope but it was ok, a bit rough and hard to read but worth a shot. Was thinking about it when 2 people I know a bit got out of the water, the woman and I have had a few chats.. She said it was pretty hard work and the waves were quite heavy, ok if you’re desperate (which I am). We swapped names, she’s Nicole. Slowly getting to know people. after 6 months. It wasn’t as hard as I had thought, but the waves trick to read. Certainly not crowded which is nice. Got a few good waves, one steep drop which I managed to stay on for, and turn with the wave, pleased with that, getting able to read the wave now. Another where I had time to read the wave and go left not right. Wind turned SW and it went v messy. Cold again today, but warm with rashy under the 3 / 4 wetsuit. Home for brekkie, then I did work on application for ACTF. Lunch then did cliff top walk. Cold day with rain. After cuppa, gave S a hair wash under the new hot water in the outside shower.

It’s the immediate, the moment that is so good about surfing. From the moment you choose a wave and paddle into it, you are in a different space, responding to what’s happening, connecting your body and the wave.

CUP DAY... no wins!

Sat 25 and Sun 26 Oct 08

Sat 25 Oct
Our street had a big garage sale with 18 houses participating. We didn’t go in it as we have brought all our extra stuff down to the house and were also planning to get to the beach for the weekend. We both had work events on Friday night though, so could check out the street activity before we left. People started setting up about 8 and we had fun going up and down the street seeing what was there. In the end we spent about $60 on stuff! Some cotton blankets for down here, a clothes horse, some jars. We left about 10 and went to Bunnings in Maribyrnong to pick up an outdoor table, as the Bunnings in Waurn Ponds had sold out. Also stopped at Rays in Waurn Ponds to change the BBQ lid. Not too hot though it had been forecast to be 30 degrees. Got to the house and had lunch and a read. Down for a walk about 3.00, I wore bathers and took a towel as it was hot again and muggy. Parked at Bottom shops and walked back towards Fairhaven. Hot enough for a swim. The sea v flat and smooth with nice little waves popping up. The water was cold with no wetsuit but fantastic and refreshing. My skin tingled and buzzed and I had to gasp for breath with the first whack of cold. But the little waves were fun and good for body surfing. Quite a few swimmers and surfers in. P slept and Sachy and I played with throwing and chasing rocks. Waves picked up and if I’d had the board I would have gone in. Wlaked back and rented video from Brenda. Brick Lane about a Bangladeshi woman married to a man she doesn’t know and living in Brick Lane London. A subtle and well written movie, understated.

Sun 26 Oct 08
Slept in till 8.30. Drove to the beach to check the surf but Swellnet was right, it’s as flat as a pond.

Sat 18 and Sun 19 Oct 08

Sat 18 Oct 08
Bought a new BBQ on way down at Waurn Ponds
Saturday hot, 30 plus degrees. No surf in the morning. Shopped Anglesea got meat from Mr Stabb to do on the new barbie. Day so hot we went to the beach after lunch, to Spot (Eastern View). I had 2 surfs. Not great waves and a bit choppy, but good fun rides. Left beach at 5.30 and still over 30 degrees. Started doing bbq but no way we could do it for dinner. Just sorted out parts etc. Lovely evening. Wind died down. Drinks out on the deck but ate inside as the mozzies arrived.

Sunday 19 Oct 08
Didn’t surf. Low tide early and no swell forecast and wind going from N to SE. Spent morning putting together the bbq. Took about 2 hours and we’d already spent an hour last night sorting out all the bolts, nuts, washers etc. 42 bits to account for and build. But got it all done. Only disappointment was the the lid hinge rivet broke the first time we hooked in the lid.

The idea of Mum and Dad coming for a day… or the story of the polite people.
Andy Tait rang to suggest he and Jan bring Mum and Dad down to visit next weekend. I thought I should be positive so went wth the idea, suggesting Sunday as Saturday was meant to be a nice 30 degrees. Andy’s idea was to leave Macedon about 9.30, drive down, get here about 12, have lunch and drive back. Seemed a v long day, let alone Dad managing the drive and the steps! Esp as he’s just started using a walking frame at home. Resolved this during the week. They not coming.

Sat 11 and Sun 12 Oct 08

Sat 11 Oct
Shopped in the morning at Anglesa, walked S at Guvvos. No surf. Checked Spot in the afternoon and there was nothing. Deb and Andrew for the weekend plus Queenie plus 10 hatchling chicks. Deb also bought eggs and kale and an amazing green broccoli. Used Pearl’s gas Weber for dinner. Took an hour to heat up and 2 hours to cook the food!

Sunday 12 October
Hot day on Sunday. Early surf, bit frustrating. Think I was a bit tired and hungover from late night and good wine etc. Walked with Deb and Andrew down to Sunnymeade. Queenie a farm dog. First time in the water. Drank it and vomited in Andrews car (on Sat) Sunday still hadn’t learnt, drank it again. Vomited again. Doh!

Sat 4 Sn 5 Oct 08

First weekend after a break. Great to be back down here. Joel has sold my board to a friend Steve for $500. The Mark Seymour, Gordon and Smith 8 footer. Sorry to sell in a way but its not the right board for me at the moment.

20 and 21 Sept, 27 and 28 Sept 08

20 21 Sept
Coollum QLD

27 27 Sept
Not at beach. Family visits

Sat 13 September 08

Two surfs today. Report not promising but when I went out at about 8 there were nice swells and a strong northerly. Urquhart’s not good but went out at Fairhaven at Pole House. Clean 3 to 4 foot. Waves faster and steeper than Urquhart’s but I held on and had some good rides.

Out again in the arvo at Eastern View. Kind of better than this morning but waves steep and closing out a bit. One really good ride which only at the end I realised there was someone on the inside. He said on the way back “ya didn’t see me behind ya did ya? I apologised but he was cool about it.

Sat 6 and Sun 7 Sept 08

both days have some sun and we sit on the deck for breakfast. Fantastic!!

Sat 6 September

Woke early and down to Urquhart’s by 7.30. Already nearly 20 out there! I was amazed. The waves not that good, well not to justify the crowd. But they were clean and occasionally around 5 foot. Again like last weekend very long waits in bw so you get cold and stiff. Had a few good rides but not enough waves to make it a fun session.

Got lamb at Mr Stabs and cooked a Greek roast for dinner. Also made my first ever sponge cake. Hand beaten with P and I sharing the beating. Great success. Cream and jam! Practicing for Deb and Andrews visit next week. A few good Op Shop finds as well. Nice long walk at Guvvos on the way to Anglesea.

Sun 7 September

Up a bit later. To Urquhart’s by 8.ish. Again, quite a crowd out there. A portable bbq and table set up on the grass with nothing on them. Got out to the line up and went for a wave straight up. The guy with the 3 boards who gets every wave he goes for (nearly) went for it on the inside. About 3 of us went for it actually, all having a go. I got up, nice wave, looked to see and he’s on it and he yells at me. So I get off. Paddling back out he passed me and shook his head, I said “I had to go for it” he said “I was nearly on top of you!”. I know it’s the rules but he was a bit aggressive in a spot where its mostly regulars. I’m certainly not a local but he knows me now and that was a bit full on. Intimidating. And of course next wave he goes for and I pull out, don’t even try for it.

But had a good session. Smaller waves and long waits. But at the end a lot of the guys got out and some bigger ones came thru. Had some really nice rides. Now I can get the waves and stay on am beginning to play with moving around the wave and learning the long board techniques,. Guide with the back foot planted right at the back, lift the rails before starting the turn.

When I got out all the boys were changed and sitting on the benches. The bbq in full swing. Women and kids and rugs and dogs. Fathers Day. They were all getting their snags cooked for them. And someone even brought takeaway coffees. Nice community feel. I’m not in though, didn’t get offered a snag, though it smelt great!

P made scrambled eggs w feta and we ate breakfast in the sun on the deck. With home made coffee!

Walked to Sunnymeade. Got rained on. About 6 surfers out on the point there. Not a lot of surf but a good place to remember when it starts to get crowded!

Sat 30 and Sun 31 Aug 08

Sat 30 Aug

Out at the end of the day 3-5 at Eastern View. Very gray. The sea merging with the sky. Waves rising out of grey, hardly visible till their shapes were there in front of you. some good rides. As report said, inconsistent with long waits in bw. But the bigger waves that I went for, I hold on when I drop down the face now and manage the turn. Sense of getting it

Sun 31 Aug

Urquhart’s early. 7.30 for a few hours. Small waves with a few 4 – 5 coming thru. Very long waits in bw. Quite a few of the regular long board guys out there and not many waves to go for. Had a nice moment when we all went for a wave and I was the one to get it. it was a great ride, getting the sense of moving around on the wave not and staying on till I choose to get off

Sat 23 and Sun 24 Aug 08

Sat 23 August

Wattle everywhere. Cold in the water now. Hands get cold fast. We all sit there tucking them under our armpits. Haven’t seen many gloves (only one pair all winter). A few hoods but my head’s never felt that cold.

Back after 2 weekends not down here. Not a lot of surf happening. Fran rang. Not much at Torquay and she was going in then. I went to Urquarts about 9. I The usual crew were already on their way in. Ways ok in size but hard to read and as Swellnet said ‘lumpy’. I want to know the difference between lumpy and bumpy. Very cold SW winds came in about 10 and it got v choppy and un fun. Came in. Not a lot of waves. Felt rusty after 2 weeks break.

No contacts as I haven’t got back to see Jo. Much harder without them. Hard to talk to people when you can’t really see them.

Sun 23August

Report suggested today was the last of one SW groundswell and the start of another. Also that the winds would be WSW to WNW. Went to Urquarts 8 ish. It wasn’t bad. Small but much cleaner than yesterday. A few out but they’d been out a while and started heading in not long after I’d been out there. Much better today. Feeling fitter and a bit stronger in the arms with my pilates work. Got a few really good rides. Am on Joel’s board which is now officially my board.

Two breakthroughs today.

One, I am getting the waves better, paddling for them, going for it when they lift you up and am now getting the sense of pushing down on the board and into the wave.

Sat 26 and Sun 27 July 08

Sat 26 July

Coastalwatch – WSW swell 2 ft. Easing light NW winds

Low tide 10.30 so long walk from Sunnymeade across the rocks to Urquarts. Small surf for longboarders. A few out. Went home. I put in my contacts. Disposable for surfing.

To Urquarts about 1.00. V small. Two people out. Rohan from the longboarders club. Had a chat about the small swell and cold water. He reckons it gets coldest in August. More to come! Nice little waves with a long wait between sets. Only other person out is a woman, older, largish on a long board picking up smaller waves inshore. I had a really fun time. Easy waves to catch, no competition. Occasional larger ones. Took off on a larger one, late takeoff and instead of nose diving or bailing I held the rail, got on my feet as the wave picked up the board, took the drop and stayed in there. Great! Good practice for when its bigger. The waves stood up so on the little ones I could practice crouching, keeping in tight and low and keeping up with the break. The other two went in and I had a while on my own. Safe. Peaceful. Satisfying.

The contacts were great, I could see the waves a lot better, plus the markers on the beach to keep my place, and the people. Both lenses stayed in.

Dinner at Olivia’s with her husband Bill, a friend Ian and Julie . Plus five dogs. Jock, their Highland terrier, Hamish, Mollie and another cavvie, Jessica with Julie and Sachy.

Sunday 27 July

Easing WSW swell tending SW. 2 ft. Light SW winds 5 -10 knots. No surf. Messy. A few people out at Spout Creek. Didn’t surf. Walked Eastern View to Spout Creek. Gen joined us at the end for a quick catch-up chat. Olivia and Julie and dogs visited for a cuppa in the afternoon.

Sat 19 and Sun 20 July 08

Sat 19 July

Fran over in Torquay. I went over but no surf. I went to Surf City and got a long sleeve rash top on sale. Fran came to us for lunch. Looked at E View and Urquarts late but nothing. No surf today.

Sun 20 July

Worse than yesterday. Swell from SEast. Not much wind. No surf.

First weekend when I haven’t got in the water!

Sat 12 & Sun 13 July 08

Sat12 July

Out at Eastern View. Afternoon. Poor surf. Got out the back with a struggle with the Gordon and Smith. Hard work. Got a wave and came off. Ended up right back in the break. Still not going well with the board. Stayed in the shore break and caught little ones. Fell and whacked my foot. Time to get out.

Sun 13 July

Took the old wax off Joel’s board. PALU. Joel calls it PAUL. Looks a lot better without it. Waxed it up. Lovely sunny day. no surf in the morning and being careful of sore foot. But Late afternoon decided to see if any surf. Took PAUL out. Not great surf but a good size. A few guys out. I did well. Got a few early and claimed my right to be there. Long waits bw waves. A few good rides. Waited for ride in. Nice size wave, good drop, stayed with it on the shoulder all way to shore. Will definitely change boards.

Sat 5 & Sun 6 July 08

Sun 6 July

Joel is selling his board. Am thinking of buying it. $500

Sat 28 and Sun 29 June 08

Sat 28 June 2008

Back after two weeks. With a coffee machine!

Waves still big from a big swell Thursday/Friday. At Fairhaven big barrels are coming in and closing out. Shining as they curve then shutting down hard, throwing up spray and sand as they collapse. Went out about 3.00. Urquarts too big. Thought of going in, then a big set came through, about 6 foot or more. Most out there got hammered. I’ve got my new (Mark Seymour) board and don’t want to try it out there. Go to Point Roadknight. Very little there, high tide, closing out on the sand. But I go in just to practice. Good to get a feel of the new board. The Gordon and Smith. Not many rides and those very short. But getting used to the board.

Sun 29 June 2008

Got up at 8.00. Good long sleep in. Had been v windy in the night but not so bad now. G&S Board already in the car, so a quick departure. Fairhaven slow, nice looking lines but I went straight to Urquhart’s to see if any of the Boardriders are still out. Stopped and looked down from the Bluff. Good view of carpark and waves. No one out. Not many waves. Back to Eastern View. Not bad, and only a few out. Gen arrived, had seen me driving past as she went to get the paper. Me in my wettie. I went out. NO waves… long, long wait. The guy with the beard, Mongoose out there prowling at the back. Trouble getting the waves, very few coming thru. Then when I got them the board seemed to sit on top of them and I’d just be left standing with no wave. Frustrating. Got a few ok ones. Then it got a bit bigger. Two guys came out on long boards. Older guys, one with rolls of mid-life good living in the wetsuit, the other baldy gray. But they got all the waves. Made it look easy. I finally went in on white water. Best ride of the day. Water getting colder now. Hands cold. But feet good in booties.

Sat-Sun 7/8 June 08

Two weeks since we were down last. I am back on Joel’s board (not using the Gordon and Smith till after the birthday). No surf in the morning. Went in at Urquarts 3.30 – 5.00 and it went from average to pretty good and from me a few others to about 15 in the water at 5.00. The car park kept filling up. Texts must have been going out saying its good! Got to about 6’ at times. I fell off once and lost my leg rope. Had to swim for the board. A guy got it for me and towed it by the rope and gave it to me. A pretty nice vibe. One guy chatted and encouraged me to go for waves, saying 'yep, yep, go for it!'. I said I didn’t want to go for ones others went for and he said “I’ll get off it if you catch it’ which was pretty cool. First wave I wiped out. The second was a fast drop and I stayed on. The third a fast drop, stayed on, shot up the shoulder and over the lip. My friend was impressed. I didn’t tell him it was a complete fluke!

Sunday Mon, Gen and Rose walked over the ridge. We made scones for them.

Surfed Eastern View in the afternoon. Late. Not too many out. Waves ok. My friend from the day before and his mate were out there. ‘Look out, he says, here’s trouble’. Again he encouraged me to go for waves. One wave was coming and he said ‘go, go, go!’. I took off, got up, looked left and there was an old guy called Mongoose, up on the wave on the inside. He was pissed off, I kept my feet and got off the wave when I could. Paddled back out. He came back out, I said sorry a lot. My mate said ‘I told her to go for it’ which was cool. Last wave there was great. Felt fantastic.

Sat-Sun 24/25 May 08

On Thursday I bought a surfboard! This is the first proper board since I sold my splendid purple on in about 1978! Have been on a foamie for the last year and finally outgrown it. Got this one
on EBay, my first ever ebay bid. Didn't expect to win it but the winning bidder was a 17 year old whose parents wouldn't hand over the credit card.

Board is a Gordon and Smith V8. About 3 yrs old. 8’1”. 22.25” x 2.75”.

The seller turned out to be Mark Seymour of Hunters and Collectors!

This board is for my 50^th. I'd planned on a new board but still working out what kind of board I need at the moment. Am enjoying Joel’s a lot - I've had that on loan for a month or so.

No waves on Saturday which turned out well as Pete came down for lunch.

Sunday I cut Sachys hair. Went for late-ish surf at Fairhaven. Tiny waves and a bit competitive. I whacked my foot on the board. Went amazingly blue! This was on the Seymour board. I found it a bit hard to use. Too light somehow (it's a lot thinner than Joel's). Pearled really easily and every wave I got, I would stand and then somehow lose the wave, which is the last thing you want!

Sat - Sun 17 /18 May

Surfed Eastern View Saturday afternoon. The surf report was WSW swell at only 2 ft. Light ENE winds. But it was good surfing for me. The colder weather is reducing the numbers in the water.

Sunday was flat. Nothing.

Sat - Sun 10 /11May 08

No surf on Saturday. Went to Grovedale Opp Shop looking for furniture. Got Sachy a few toys to play with. This is bear who didn't last very long!

To Surf City to get a wetsuit to survive the winter in. Lots of fancy wetsuits these days but the Rip Curl 4:3 classic did the trick.

Surfed Sunday morning at Urquarts and afternoon at Eastern View. The wetsuit makes a huge difference!

3 May

Lyn stayed the night. Roast dinner and how to sharpen a knife. A great walk at the end of the day. Clouds and sky and this great reflection of the lighthouse in the mirror of low tide

Anzac Day long weekend

Good way to start with a long weekend with 2 surfs on Friday at Fairhaven then Eastern View. Settling into the house with Mon and Gen for dinner on Saturday night.

Surfing still on the 8' foam board which is beginning to feel very sluggish and slow.

the beginning

Saturday 19 April. That's the start. It started before that of course, but here's a starting point because now we have a house by the sea. Now is the chance to get into the surf most weekends.