Sat 26 July
Coastalwatch – WSW swell 2
Low tide 10.30 so long walk from Sunnymeade across the rocks to Urquarts. Small surf for longboarders. A few out. Went home. I put in my contacts. Disposable for surfing.
To Urquarts about 1.00. V small. Two people out. Rohan from the longboarders club. Had a chat about the small swell and cold water. He reckons it gets coldest in August. More to come! Nice little waves with a long wait between sets. Only other person out is a woman, older, largish on a long board picking up smaller waves inshore. I had a really fun time. Easy waves to catch, no competition. Occasional larger ones. Took off on a larger one, late takeoff and instead of nose diving or bailing I held the rail, got on my feet as the wave picked up the board, took the drop and stayed in there. Great! Good practice for when its bigger. The waves stood up so on the little ones I could practice crouching, keeping in tight and low and keeping up with the break. The other two went in and I had a while on my own. Safe. Peaceful. Satisfying.
The contacts were great, I could see the waves a lot better, plus the markers on the beach to keep my place, and the people. Both lenses stayed in.
Easing WSW swell tending SW. 2
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