Two weeks since we were down last. I am back on Joel’s board (not using the Gordon and Smith till after the birthday). No surf in the morning. Went in at Urquarts 3.30 – 5.00 and it went from average to pretty good and from me a few others to about 15 in the water at 5.00. The car park kept filling up. Texts must have been going out saying its good! Got to about 6’ at times. I fell off once and lost my leg rope. Had to swim for the board. A guy got it for me and towed it by the rope and gave it to me. A pretty nice vibe. One guy chatted and encouraged me to go for waves, saying 'yep, yep, go for it!'. I said I didn’t want to go for ones others went for and he said “I’ll get off it if you catch it’ which was pretty cool. First wave I wiped out. The second was a fast drop and I stayed on. The third a fast drop, stayed on, shot up the shoulder and over the lip. My friend was impressed. I didn’t tell him it was a complete fluke!
Surfed Eastern View in the afternoon. Late. Not too many out. Waves ok. My friend from the day before and his mate were out there. ‘Look out, he says, here’s trouble’. Again he encouraged me to go for waves. One wave was coming and he said ‘go, go, go!’. I took off, got up, looked left and there was an old guy called
