Sat12 July
Out at Eastern View. Afternoon. Poor surf. Got out the back with a struggle with the Gordon and Smith. Hard work. Got a wave and came off. Ended up right back in the break. Still not going well with the board. Stayed in the shore break and caught little ones. Fell and whacked my foot. Time to get out.
Took the old wax off Joel’s board. PALU. Joel calls it PAUL. Looks a lot better without it. Waxed it up. Lovely sunny day. no surf in the morning and being careful of sore foot. But Late afternoon decided to see if any surf. Took PAUL out. Not great surf but a good size. A few guys out. I did well. Got a few early and claimed my right to be there. Long waits bw waves. A few good rides. Waited for ride in. Nice size wave, good drop, stayed with it on the shoulder all way to shore.
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