Sat 23 and Sun 24 Aug 08

Sat 23 August

Wattle everywhere. Cold in the water now. Hands get cold fast. We all sit there tucking them under our armpits. Haven’t seen many gloves (only one pair all winter). A few hoods but my head’s never felt that cold.

Back after 2 weekends not down here. Not a lot of surf happening. Fran rang. Not much at Torquay and she was going in then. I went to Urquarts about 9. I The usual crew were already on their way in. Ways ok in size but hard to read and as Swellnet said ‘lumpy’. I want to know the difference between lumpy and bumpy. Very cold SW winds came in about 10 and it got v choppy and un fun. Came in. Not a lot of waves. Felt rusty after 2 weeks break.

No contacts as I haven’t got back to see Jo. Much harder without them. Hard to talk to people when you can’t really see them.

Sun 23August

Report suggested today was the last of one SW groundswell and the start of another. Also that the winds would be WSW to WNW. Went to Urquarts 8 ish. It wasn’t bad. Small but much cleaner than yesterday. A few out but they’d been out a while and started heading in not long after I’d been out there. Much better today. Feeling fitter and a bit stronger in the arms with my pilates work. Got a few really good rides. Am on Joel’s board which is now officially my board.

Two breakthroughs today.

One, I am getting the waves better, paddling for them, going for it when they lift you up and am now getting the sense of pushing down on the board and into the wave.

Sat 26 and Sun 27 July 08

Sat 26 July

Coastalwatch – WSW swell 2 ft. Easing light NW winds

Low tide 10.30 so long walk from Sunnymeade across the rocks to Urquarts. Small surf for longboarders. A few out. Went home. I put in my contacts. Disposable for surfing.

To Urquarts about 1.00. V small. Two people out. Rohan from the longboarders club. Had a chat about the small swell and cold water. He reckons it gets coldest in August. More to come! Nice little waves with a long wait between sets. Only other person out is a woman, older, largish on a long board picking up smaller waves inshore. I had a really fun time. Easy waves to catch, no competition. Occasional larger ones. Took off on a larger one, late takeoff and instead of nose diving or bailing I held the rail, got on my feet as the wave picked up the board, took the drop and stayed in there. Great! Good practice for when its bigger. The waves stood up so on the little ones I could practice crouching, keeping in tight and low and keeping up with the break. The other two went in and I had a while on my own. Safe. Peaceful. Satisfying.

The contacts were great, I could see the waves a lot better, plus the markers on the beach to keep my place, and the people. Both lenses stayed in.

Dinner at Olivia’s with her husband Bill, a friend Ian and Julie . Plus five dogs. Jock, their Highland terrier, Hamish, Mollie and another cavvie, Jessica with Julie and Sachy.

Sunday 27 July

Easing WSW swell tending SW. 2 ft. Light SW winds 5 -10 knots. No surf. Messy. A few people out at Spout Creek. Didn’t surf. Walked Eastern View to Spout Creek. Gen joined us at the end for a quick catch-up chat. Olivia and Julie and dogs visited for a cuppa in the afternoon.

Sat 19 and Sun 20 July 08

Sat 19 July

Fran over in Torquay. I went over but no surf. I went to Surf City and got a long sleeve rash top on sale. Fran came to us for lunch. Looked at E View and Urquarts late but nothing. No surf today.

Sun 20 July

Worse than yesterday. Swell from SEast. Not much wind. No surf.

First weekend when I haven’t got in the water!

Sat 12 & Sun 13 July 08

Sat12 July

Out at Eastern View. Afternoon. Poor surf. Got out the back with a struggle with the Gordon and Smith. Hard work. Got a wave and came off. Ended up right back in the break. Still not going well with the board. Stayed in the shore break and caught little ones. Fell and whacked my foot. Time to get out.

Sun 13 July

Took the old wax off Joel’s board. PALU. Joel calls it PAUL. Looks a lot better without it. Waxed it up. Lovely sunny day. no surf in the morning and being careful of sore foot. But Late afternoon decided to see if any surf. Took PAUL out. Not great surf but a good size. A few guys out. I did well. Got a few early and claimed my right to be there. Long waits bw waves. A few good rides. Waited for ride in. Nice size wave, good drop, stayed with it on the shoulder all way to shore. Will definitely change boards.

Sat 5 & Sun 6 July 08

Sun 6 July

Joel is selling his board. Am thinking of buying it. $500

Sat 28 and Sun 29 June 08

Sat 28 June 2008

Back after two weeks. With a coffee machine!

Waves still big from a big swell Thursday/Friday. At Fairhaven big barrels are coming in and closing out. Shining as they curve then shutting down hard, throwing up spray and sand as they collapse. Went out about 3.00. Urquarts too big. Thought of going in, then a big set came through, about 6 foot or more. Most out there got hammered. I’ve got my new (Mark Seymour) board and don’t want to try it out there. Go to Point Roadknight. Very little there, high tide, closing out on the sand. But I go in just to practice. Good to get a feel of the new board. The Gordon and Smith. Not many rides and those very short. But getting used to the board.

Sun 29 June 2008

Got up at 8.00. Good long sleep in. Had been v windy in the night but not so bad now. G&S Board already in the car, so a quick departure. Fairhaven slow, nice looking lines but I went straight to Urquhart’s to see if any of the Boardriders are still out. Stopped and looked down from the Bluff. Good view of carpark and waves. No one out. Not many waves. Back to Eastern View. Not bad, and only a few out. Gen arrived, had seen me driving past as she went to get the paper. Me in my wettie. I went out. NO waves… long, long wait. The guy with the beard, Mongoose out there prowling at the back. Trouble getting the waves, very few coming thru. Then when I got them the board seemed to sit on top of them and I’d just be left standing with no wave. Frustrating. Got a few ok ones. Then it got a bit bigger. Two guys came out on long boards. Older guys, one with rolls of mid-life good living in the wetsuit, the other baldy gray. But they got all the waves. Made it look easy. I finally went in on white water. Best ride of the day. Water getting colder now. Hands cold. But feet good in booties.