Sat 23 and Sun 24 Aug 08

Sat 23 August

Wattle everywhere. Cold in the water now. Hands get cold fast. We all sit there tucking them under our armpits. Haven’t seen many gloves (only one pair all winter). A few hoods but my head’s never felt that cold.

Back after 2 weekends not down here. Not a lot of surf happening. Fran rang. Not much at Torquay and she was going in then. I went to Urquarts about 9. I The usual crew were already on their way in. Ways ok in size but hard to read and as Swellnet said ‘lumpy’. I want to know the difference between lumpy and bumpy. Very cold SW winds came in about 10 and it got v choppy and un fun. Came in. Not a lot of waves. Felt rusty after 2 weeks break.

No contacts as I haven’t got back to see Jo. Much harder without them. Hard to talk to people when you can’t really see them.

Sun 23August

Report suggested today was the last of one SW groundswell and the start of another. Also that the winds would be WSW to WNW. Went to Urquarts 8 ish. It wasn’t bad. Small but much cleaner than yesterday. A few out but they’d been out a while and started heading in not long after I’d been out there. Much better today. Feeling fitter and a bit stronger in the arms with my pilates work. Got a few really good rides. Am on Joel’s board which is now officially my board.

Two breakthroughs today.

One, I am getting the waves better, paddling for them, going for it when they lift you up and am now getting the sense of pushing down on the board and into the wave.